Costa Rica

December 2015

For many years now Graham has been talking about disappearing to Mexico for three months every year during his off-season. Is it a possibility? Sure! One day I guess. It got more and more real as we met numerous characters along our travels in Costa Rica who also got away and left behind the hassle and bustle of their old lives. Nate came to mind first, a guy similar in age who had taken us out on paddleboards one morning in Jaco, where the ocean beneath us was so clear you could see your reflection. At 6am in the morning the wind was still at bay before the tide came in with its overhead crashing waves. Nate had left California three years ago and was now living in Costa Rica with his newly found native wife and brand new three month old baby. He was an avid surfer with a laid back personality and he told us he came here to LIVE. When we tipped him a generous 45 dollars his voice cracked in appreciation. He told us he and his wife together make about 120 dollars a week and survive off about 20 dollars worth of food. He would however not change a thing. His big smile, calm demeanor and joy as he pointed out the beautiful views were hard not to love. You could tell he had spent the last three years enjoying the sun with his dark tan and crows feet from squinting out the rays. Listening to him talk was eye opening. Life in America or any other world power does have its luxuries, many of which you would have to forget to live here. On the other hand here, there is the possibility of having so much more to gain.

The major reason we came to Costa Rica was for Graham to feed his passion and love for surfing. He of course also wished for me to feel that same passion so I can safely accompany him on every surf break around the world. Knowing that I would likely drown or break something I came prepared with eight books, magazines, my to do list and iPad. I have dragged him around on vacations so often in the past to the point of exhaustion, so I let him take the reigns on this one. I did know I actually needed to recuperate and relax for a change so I tried my best to convert my stress head personality into inner peace. Graham has been surfing since he was eleven years old, he is one of those guys super far out, deep in the waves surfing the face, zipping and turning as if it was some kind of graceful dance. He makes it look so easy. I had tried surfing two or three individual times before and knew deep down how hard it really is. I had however made a pact to myself that I would do a surf session every time Graham did. Just not a two to five hour sessions of course.

My first board was a foam, already fairly banged up, 7ft surf board. Having some idea from my surf novel reads I managed to carry it out to the beach and put my leash on with no issues while Graham watched me patiently with a smirk. I leaned over to pick up my board again…or should I say tugging at it, while Graham laughed and said “I guess you missed the bit where you don’t put your board down on wet sand”. Ignoring him, I continued on carrying the board with about 2kg of extra weight into the water. We paddled out together, Graham gave a few words of encouragement and easily we were in the line up…thankfully just the two of us. The ocean was powerful and forceful. It had a lot of bite to it. I believe the word head high was used to measure the size so I quickly retreated to the white wash, after numerous wipe outs, board abandonments and just feeling helpless and defeated. Luckily in white wash I was able to do a few fun rides into the beach, after which I felt so much better.

Jaco itself was an upbeat little town, with many shops, restaurants and even bars. The waves are constant, however seemed to be closing out which was why I was so scared of that tremendous wall of water crashing on top of me. For the remainder of the day I read on the beach in the shade and then when Graham finally returned we ventured out to Manuel Antonio National Park for sight seeing and a groin clenching high ropes thrill ride through the treetops.

Even though Graham is much more laid back then I am, we both travel similarly. We generally don’t stay in one place too long so we soon left to explore the coast of the Nicoya peninsula from Santa Teresa all the way up to Tamarindo. Playa Hermosa, north of Santa Teresa, where we were staying, was Graham’s favorite surf spot because the conditions were ideal. Secretly I think he also enjoyed the company of six middle aged women sitting out there in the line up chit chatting and praising him with compliments. Never the less his elegance on the waves was even more pristine on this day due to the glassy waves, minimal people and no rocks. The hotel we stayed in was a cute little hut amongst the trees overlooking the ocean, but to get to it was a mud slide of hills, pot holes and dust. It was basic, with no air conditioning and I think Graham even electrocuted himself in the shower. The owners were however super friendly.

Tamarindo was super fun for me. We stayed right at the beach in luxurious resort called Tamarindo Diria with 5 pools, numerous pool bars and a selection of fancy restaurants. You could see the swell and the huge walls of waves as you walked into the reception as well as the rocks that apparently help the waves constantly break in the same spot-also known as a point break. The first day I lasted about 30 minutes in the surf before retreating back to the poolside drinking cocktails and reading. Apparently it is normal for your nose to dribble for a few hours after a surf session. So, while my book was drying, I enjoyed browsing the cute little overpriced tourist shops in the area and not having to do anything in particular.

Tamarindo just got better and better as the days passed. We enjoyed beautiful restaurants; hour long couples massages and lounging by the pool. Massages were moderately priced. Even though the Indonesian five dollar massages are still amazing, nothing beats the breeze of the ocean and the sound of the waves crashing in the background while every inch of your body is caressed. I asked Graham what he thinks about during the massages, and he said for the majority of the time ‘absolutely nothing,’ another time that he had to pee but that was about it. I on the other hand as usual have a million things and ideas running through my head. Half the time I was thinking I wish I had a pen right next to me write everything down. Yes a problem I will sure to work on as I get older…I’ll put that one on my list! My masseuse also had crackling fingers to say the least. It was actually so distracting I wondered if her hands hurt her? I could not figure out a cause or whether or not it was degenerative issue but defiantly something to not turn a blind eye to.

Graham not only treated me for a massage that day, which I know he deserved much more than I after his long surf sessions, he then, took me out for a surf lesson with 100% of his attention. Reluctantly I rubbed in my zinc and carried by big soft top long board once again out to the unforgiving ocean. For an hour and a half he sat out there helping me to survive the white wash, lined me up, gave tips to succeed and helped me choose which wave to go for. My goal before I left Costa Rica was to ride the wall and get that same rush I get as when I snow board. Luckily I finally got it!!! I was happy and quiet on a good note. It also helped that I was way better than the other beginner practicing with a surf instructor. She was not even paddling and covered her face each time a wave came. I even managed to get a few compliments from spectators at the beach saying good job as a walked my severely chaffed inner thighs back to the hotel.

The great start to the day did take a sudden turn. At about noon on Saturday I received a message from my best friend Ashley. We received some really sad news about the death of Graham’s really good friend and hunting buddy. I almost chocked on my water when I read it. Our previous chit chat about the cats had been so insignificant compared to what I just read. Graham read the message shortly afterwards two or three times. I could tell he was processing and just stared at the ocean for several minutes. Ted was one of Graham’s close friends from school, actually his first friend in Texas. As crazy as the guy was, his constant grin that was always strewn across his face made it difficult for people not to like him.

I could tell that Ted’s death had not sunk in for Graham yet. Soon after the news Graham was again paddling out, I’m sure starting to process the grief and coming to terms with the news he had just heard. He seemed okay for most of the day, however just before dinner I saw him cry for the second time in the 10 years I have been with him.

On the final day before our departure inland I gave surfing my final effort and it was awesome. I understand now why Graham was constantly googling the swell on magic seaweed, because on this day he was totally focused on me. The swell had come and gone leaving wonderful little waves perfect for me to ride on. Initially with gentle pushes I rode the wall of many waves all the way to shore until finally I was paddling and catching them myself. Every other day I had given up within the hour after being pounded, but today I lasted twice as long and I was still hungry for more. I was proud and even Graham gave me the thumbs up.

Out on the water that day we met a bolding man with terrible sunburn on his scalp from North Carolina. Graham and him had struck up a conversation in the surf, which continued later in the pool. He had actually made a new protégée of a surfboard. As we spoke with him, we could tell he had a good idea of the surfboard market and his goal to create a board that made it easier for beginners to catch a wave. His design was a board, cut at the tail end with little tunnels at the back, which in theory were meant to fill with water and help the rider be pushed by the wave. The extra water in the ‘bucket like’ crevices was also meant to weigh down the back of the board to prevent the newbie from pearling. He also wore an ankle bracelet, similar to an enlarged fit bit which was meant to be some sort of magnetic device that deterred sharks, all types but the great whites at least.

When the surf died we explored the surrounding beaches around Tamarindo and enjoyed the peace where no tourists had roamed, before heading inland to La Fortuna and Arenal National Park. Five years ago we stayed in the same Arenal lodge with beautiful views of the rumbling volcano. I still remember the volcano shaking on a night walk where red sparks would shoot from the crater followed by crashing rocks. Today it wasn’t doing much. Some smoke at the top was evident now and then but otherwise it was silent. We hiked to the famous waterfall, trotted on horses without a helmet and then once again relaxed at the famous and beautiful Tabacon hot springs. The ‘Tabacon splurge’ was an apparent ‘business expense’ Graham told me with a grin all the way to his ears.

Costa Rica for me this time was one of the most relaxing ten days I have had. Since our last visit here, it had already changed a lot. While the roads were still bad in some areas, others were so nice you forgot where you were. Having our own rental car also gave us a lot of freedom. The biggest thing that changed was the cost of food, accommodation and activities. Our initial appeal to go down there was the cheap flights. However, once we were there we were astounded at the prices. Nevertheless Graham was able to surf and he achieved his goal of allowing me to experience a glimpse of that same rush he feels when he surfs down the face of a wave. “Pura Vida.”